When it comes to types of men’s Japanese Kimono, there are few types compared to types of women’s Japanese Kimono. Wearing a kimono is a must-try experience when visiting Japan. Knowing different types of kimonos, when to wear them and who is suitable to wear them, is very important in Japanese Cultures. Knowing the basic differences is a way to show respect to the cultures and to avoid any awkward situations.
First Formal Wear 第一礼装
1. Kuroha Butae (with 5 crests) 黒羽二重 (五つ紋付)
Regardless of age, men’s formal wear is a haori (haori is a traditional Japanese Jacket that is worn over kimono) and hakama (hakama is a pleated, two-part lower garment that is tied around the waist and extend down to the ankles) with five crests. It is worn as clothing for wedding grooms and matchmakers.
2. 色紋付 Iro Montsuki
Iro Montsuki is the next formal wear after the Kuro Montsuki. (Iro means coloured, kuro means black). Depending on the material and how to attach the crest, the range of applications can be widely used. You can feel the individuality of the men’s kimono, which is relatively plain in color. The material is dyed in plain colour. In modern times, it is attached with five crests and is worn as a groom’s outfit. It will be the same rank as the female iro tomesode.
Fashionable, Going Out Wear おしゃれ・外出着
1. Omeshi (Hitotsu Mon) お召 (一つ紋付)
If you add three crests or one crest to the plain color of Omeshi kimono, it will be the same rank as a woman’s Iromuji and Houmongi. It is worn for invited guests such as weddings, and for visits and outings.
2. Tsumugi 紬（アンサンブル）
Since it is not a courtesy wear, it does not have to be montsuki (crested), and depending on where you go out, you may wear it without wearing a hakama (hakama is a pleated, two-part lower garment that is tied around the waist and extend down to the ankles). However, it is still a good idea to wear a hakama for a visit. Also, when you go out, wear a haori (haori is a traditional Japanese Jacket that is worn over kimono). Omeshi, plain kimono and striped pattern of Tsumugi and will look fashionable when matching with haori in different colours or materials.
3. Wool ウール（アンサンブル）
As a streetwear or relaxing kimono, it is easy to maintain and easy to wear. It can be worn in winter, spring, and autumn as a single garment. Regardless of age, it can be easily worn by beginners too.
4. Jofu 上布
It is a typical material for summer kimono. The sweat-absorbent texture is cool to look and feels good to the touch. Please note that because material is thin and can be seen through, it is important to tailor them to suit your body shape.
1. Montsuki 紋付
Mon (紋) means family crest. Generally the whole family uses the same Mon on kimonos. Tsuki means to attach. Montsuki means kimono attached with family crest.
5 crests on a kimono is most formal one, follows by 3 crests, and then 1 crest:
5 crests: 1 at the back, two on the front shouders, 2 on the elbows
3 crests: 1 at the back, 2 on the elbows
1 crest: at the back